On the Way to Ladakh

My spirit found an opportunity to gain purpose, something to grasp onto, and a measure of wisdom and insight that continues to guide my footsteps now – and, I expect, will for the remainder of my days. 

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Thiksey Monastery-1-JimPatton

I don’t exactly recall when the Ladakh trip was announced at Breathe Together Yoga, but when it was, I knew I had to go. I just had to! Why Ladakh? Maybe it was the call of the high Himalayan mountain passes. Maybe it was the idea of really disconnecting from the hectic, frenetic pace of life here in California. Maybe it was the idea that, for most of the trip, my cell phone would be a camera and a camera only. I must say the idea of turning it off and leaving it off for an extended period of time was (and still is) very appealing.

Ultimately, I needed to get away from this continent and return to Asia. I needed to go to an elevation that I’d never been to before, and, in a sense, I desperately desired an opportunity to spend time with the Tibetan people on their terms. I wanted to know more about their culture, their struggle, and their way of life so close to the top of the world. I wanted the opportunity to meditate within sacred monasteries for extended periods of time. I wanted the opportunity to cross the paths of the ancients, to touch the Indus River, and to push myself to new limits.

I wanted the freedom to breathe deeply without despair. Without the punishing time commitments that had become a part of my everyday life. I wanted to be so freaking far away that, regardless of what happened in California, it could no longer touch or reach me. I wanted separation from a life that had become, in some very real ways, simply unlivable.

On the day enrollment opened, I may have actually been the first to sign up. I was so stressed that it was going to fill up immediately and that I was going to miss this opportunity that I  probably resembled a sprinter at the start of an important race. It wasn’t that I necessarily needed to be the first to sign up; I needed to know that I was going to Ladakh. I was that worried, until I got confirmation that I was on my way. I probably closely resembled a dog chasing his tail and not knowing when to stop. Breathe, and bring it all back to Earth. The things we do to ourselves sometimes.

From there, it was all about preparations, which are more or less the easy part, though it can be challenging for some not to bring the proverbial kitchen sink along on the trip. I packed, repacked, and started all over again several times. Having some experience as a backpacker helped in the end, and I was able to (reluctantly at first) leave behind a lot of unnecessary items and gear. Having been a Boy Scout, I like to be prepared – but honestly, who disco dances in Ladakh?

Finally, the first day of travel arrived and I was ready to go. I was off to SFO to catch a flight to Vancouver, followed by a direct flight to Delhi. Yes, it’s a long flight, but I enjoyed it. Once we arrived in Delhi and the door to the plane was opened, I was greeted by the humidity while the air of Delhi embraced me. I was overjoyed in many respects. I was back in India again. My bags decided to remain in Canada, and I was okay with that; it added to the character of this adventure.

Faisal Khan, our guide (“man with all the answers”) and a truly good-hearted man met us outside of baggage claim and escorted us to the shuttle that was to take us to our hotel. At the hotel, I got a chance to meet my traveling companions for the next couple of  weeks.

The next morning, we were on a plane to Leh (elevation: 11,309 feet), the capital of Ladakh. Now, I was thinking, the adventure really begins. We spent the rest of the day relaxing, acclimating to the altitude, and getting to know one another a bit better. I was elated and excited, filled with the joy of knowing I had arrived.

Reflecting on this trip, looking through the pictures I did take and those that were shared with me, and reviewing some of the journal notes I made along the way, brings it all back into the present. I am reminded that what I gained I can still feel most deeply. Scroll through some memorable moments from my experience:

I was with a marvelous group of travelers and the view of the mountains from our hotel in Leh was simply amazing. For the first time in a very long time, I felt a measure of peace that was unfamiliar, unexpected, but welcomed most enthusiastically. I was back home in a mountain range that I had yet to explore, getting ever closer to the top of the world.

The following day, we headed out the door in a caravan of smallish, four-door vans on our way to the Thiksay Monastery. Thiksay Monastery is located 19 kilometers from Leh, the capital town of Ladakh. It is situated on a hillock overlooking the Indus Valley with a full view of the magnificent Stok range. Spon Palden Sherab with his master, Jangsem Sherab Zangpo (one of the six contemporary disciples of Lord Tsongkhapa, the founder of Gelugpa school of Tibetan Buddhism, responsible for the dissemination of his teachings to the remote provinces) founded Thiksay monastery in 1433 A.D. Tsongkhapa once prophesied: “My doctrine will flourish along the right side of the Indus River.” This prophecy came to realization with the establishment of the first Gelugpa monastery at Thiksay, followed by many other large-scale monasteries belonging to the same order, such as Spituk and Likir monasteries, all located on the right side of the Indus River. Jangsem Sherab Zangpo had initially built a temple called Lhakhang Serpo (Yellow Temple), prior to Thiksay monastery.

I was more than a bit overwhelmed at first. This was the first of what would be many walks up and down, for which I am eternally thankful. I guess, in a special way, that’s part of the preparation that Ladakh offers those who venture here. The altitude, elevation, and many steps exact a toll from those who would visit these sacred places. Striving to strip away the junk that you may have brought along, a cleansing so to speak, leaving a measure of rawness to your soul, so that you might begin to feel what the Tibetan people have known for over a thousand years.

There were so many things to see, so many details, so much to experience. I had to keep reminding myself to breathe, move slowly, and feel what this special and unique place had to offer.

On the way, we were treated to some rather amazing views of the Indus River Valley…

…special, heart-warming messages along the way…

…as well as the biggest prayer wheel I had ever seen (I had to give it at least three spins!).

There were more sacred spaces to explore than I could count. Some did not allow photography, which we all honored, while it was permitted at other sites. Sometimes I forgot I had a camera and instead focused on breathing and being present. Maybe that was one of the real gifts that I had overlooked previously: the opportunity to let go of the need to capture one more Kodak moment and simply be present.

What I would consider to be one of the many blessings that was bestowed upon me during this trip was the opportunity to befriend Karma Tensum. He joined us on this trip as a teacher, observer, and friend. Being Tibetan himself, he had much to share with us concerning his culture and experiences, Tibetan Buddhism, and his own unique viewpoint. His presence during this trip is still difficult for me to put into words. For now, I’ll just say that I am ever so thankful that he was present from the beginning to the end of this journey.

I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to meditate in this sacred space, before the Maitreya Buddha, in complete silence and solitude on two separate occasions. Without fully comprehending it during either moment, I found answers that are still guiding me to this day. I am so very glad that we had a second opportunity to visit the Thiksay monastery during morning prayers. For me, it will always be more than simply a special, sacred space. My spirit found an opportunity to gain purpose, something to grasp onto, and a measure of wisdom and insight that continues to guide my footsteps now – and, I expect, will for the remainder of my days. 

Picture of Jim Patton

Jim Patton

Jim’s journey started in Maine and eventually led him to Los Gatos, California – and through many states in between. During a three-year stretch, he spent nine months of each year camping and backpacking. Eventually he found his way to Silicon Valley and a career in tech (which ended after a two-year contract working for the DoD). Along the path, he met a fellow scuba instructor by the name of Paul Miller, who introduced him to meditation. Paul’s wife introduced Jim to crystals and his geek was on! Paul and Kate introduced Jim to Gideon and Ana Enz who opened the path to Wuji Qigong and Yang-Style Taijiquan, which led Jim to Breathe Together Yoga. Jennifer Prugh stepped in and led the way to Ladakh, India, and then to the JOY of Yoga teacher training program.

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